Saturday, February 9, 2013

Cowaramup

I thought the names in New Zealand were weird until I came to Australia.  Cowaramup, Wilyabrup, Marangaroo, Yallingup, Metricup, Gnarawary to name a few weird ones I’ve encountered.  Wilyabrup is where Woodlands is located, and down the road a ways in Cowaramup, where I will be living.  Eventually I will be living here:



This amazing rammed earth cottage out in the middle of about 200 acres of land, apparently with sheep during some parts of the year, particularly lambing season, which I am already excited about even though it is months away.   I will be living here with Kirsten, the cellar door manager from Florida, after her current roommates move out later this month.  I was invited to the house for a little gathering of Kirsten’s neighbors and friends and the neighbors’ friends, who came down for the weekend from Perth.  A couple of them are from Tauranga, New Zealand, where I was last year for about 3 months… small world. 

This next section is not for the faint of heart.  You were warned.  Kirsten and her boyfriend have quite a few chickens, and decided to reduce their stock that night so they invited over the owner of the property to help with this.  A couple little boys were there playing with the chickens and got to select the victims.  Some of the gatherers participated in various parts of the process and the others watched as they were hung from a tree by their feet, their heads were held to stretch the necks out, and they were decapitated.  We’ve all heard the phrase “running around like a chicken with its head cut off;” this is no joke.  For about a full minute after losing their heads, the chickens fluttered their wings and thrashed around from their dangling points on the tree.  After this calmed down they would still twitch every once in a while for the next few minutes.  After the chickens were fully limp, they were taken down, soaked in hot water for a minute to loosen the feathers, dunked in cool water so as not to be cooked, and they were plucked.  After all the feathers were gone and the meat was bare, they were gutted with a special process of cutting off the feet, cutting around where the tail was and pulling everything out of the middle, then tucking the wings in and putting the legs through slots made in the skin.  Right before our eyes they were transformed from fluffy, clucking, walking creatures to pieces of white raw meat as you would see in a grocery store… welcome to Australia!  



The rest of the evening was fun as we sampled some wines, socialized, played table tennis, and ate the product of their hard work.

I got back to Andrew’s cottage, where I’m staying for a night or two, and he asked if the possum had bothered me at all.  I said, um, no, what possum, and he pointed to the ceiling in the kitchen, where a tail was hanging down through a small hole!  Then we noticed next to it was a tiny little tail, of the possum’s baby!  Again, welcome to Australia!



The name Cowaramup clearly has something to do with cows… I’m not sure how exactly the name came about, but cows are the general symbol of the town, particularly this statue in the middle of the park in town:



It is the product of a local artist in response to a controversial statue of a naked lady in a diving position on a similar platform that was ridiculed by about half the local public (the other half liked it).  That one was named as “Free as a bird” but was more commonly called “Chick on a stick,” so the cow was named “Free as a cow,” and is more commonly known as “Rump on a Stump” or “Roast on a Post.”


Perth


Perth is the most isolated capital city in the world.  It is a city not unlike other cities, but it is quite small.  Hostel reviews were discouraging, but luckily at the last minute Andrew, vineyard manager at Woodlands Winery, where I’ll be working the vintage this year, told me I could stay at his family’s house in South Perth as he would be up that week anyway for some business and other things.  So I was picked up from the airport and headed to a house in a nice part of town.  The house had internet so I continued my gumtree search for a cheap car.  From what I’ve witnessed and heard, there are many many cheap cars for sale, but they sell quickly so if you find a good deal you have to jump on it.  Andrew was actually looking for a cheap car for his girlfriend as well who had gone home to France for a few months and so sold her previous one.  I already had a meeting set up to try a car so I left the house and started to walk up the street, but en route I received a text from the owner saying she had just sold it… more evidence for the liquidity of cheap cars in the area.  I tested 2 Hyundai excels the next day and liked one of them.  I was pretty sure I would go for the first one because the price was reasonable and the car seemed to be in pretty good shape, but Andrew shot down that dream, saying Hyundais are no good and I should get a Japanese car like a Mitsubishi.  So back to the internet searching I went for a few days, finding potential vehicles, viewing and test driving a few, and I finally settled on this little Lancer, and am feeling pretty good about my purchase.  After all, red Mitsubishis have been good to me in the past J



I explored the city a bit that week, bought a shirt for $1, got a free burrito one day at a new little Mexican place that had just opened up, and after I got my car I headed East to see the Swan Valley, Western Australia’s oldest wine region.  It is cute with a few good wineries, breweries, chocolate factories, and a coffee company that also does tastings so it made for a very nice afternoon.  The drive back in traffic with no air conditioning in 100 degree weather wasn’t as fun, but I made it back and relaxed for the evening, ready to head down to the allegedly cooler Margaret River region the next morning.

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Mudgee


After living in tiny rural New Zealand, Sydney Australia is quite an overwhelming shock of a city.  For one thing, as in most big cities, driving is stressful and frustrating, especially parking lots that charge $27 per hour.  But we had to see the opera house:




Beyond that, we found no reason to stick around so we headed north towards the Blue Mountains that held the promise of small country towns, free camping, and world class rock climbing.  Unfortunately, it was about 40 degrees Celsius and slightly humid, so it was basically unbearable to walk down the street more than a block or two.  We set up bank accounts, found a grocery store for a few basics, and then posted up in a coffee shop to use the internet and have a cold drink.  We set up camp and tried to stay cool while drifting off to sleep early.  In the morning we woke up to kangaroos in our campground!  We had seen signs warning about them on the road and heard horror stories of not being able to drive at night in Queensland due to the number of kangaroos jumping across the road all night, but this was the first time we had actually seen one.  They are so weird looking!  Large middles, huge feet, they sort of just lean forward to eat off the ground and they look as if they could topple over at any second.  Apparently I’ll get used to them, as the advice given to me from someone when I mentioned I was going to Western Australia was “look out for the kangaroos and the locals.”
After two mornings of climbing in the shade and splitting before the sun go too high and too hot, we headed up to Mudgee a cute little country town with apparently around 40 vineyards and wineries.

Luckily the house we were in had a pretty good cable set up so I was able to watch the 49ers beat the Falcons on their way to the super bowl.  Hopefully 2 Mondays from now at 7am I’ll be able to find a place broadcasting ESPN...

Mudgee is not such an exciting town… I pretty much know the entire “city” center, which I have walked around multiple times looking for something to occupy my time during the day while everyone is at work.  I have frequented the Mudgee Brewery for its free wifi, found a good coffee shop, taken a yoga class, gone for a jog, and that’s about all there is to do around Mudgee if you’re not wine tasting.

After a week in Mudgee trying to occupy my time and not melt, on Saturday night I had an energy drink and took to the road, headed back to Sydney to return the rental car and fly west.  I drove slowly because apparently kangaroos are worst at night, and also because there were thunderstorms and the rain made it hard to see very well.  I got to the city early so I pulled off for a quick nap before entering the airport vicinity, and then slept intermittently on what was one of the most uncomfortable planes I have experienced.  I’m looking forward to seeing Western Australia and especially Margaret River, which I keep hearing is beautiful with nice wineries… good thing I was able to fly half way across the planet to find such a place…